Basque Country-From Frank Gehry to Balenciaga
The Basque Country stretches from the Rioja wine region in northern Spain all the way to southeastern France, along the Atlantic coast and at the foot of the Pyrenees. In that wild landscape, among endless vineyards, lie medieval villages, museums, wineries, hotels and a wealth of spectacular sites.
From architect Frank Gehry to fashion legend Cristóbal Balenciaga — the Basque region blends northern Spain with southeastern France, offering stunning nature and superb food — a fascinating trip filled with design and atmosphere.
Exceptionally Designed Wineries
About a four-hour drive north of Barcelona, we found ourselves amidst the infinite vineyards of the Rioja region. There, hundreds of wineries compete, not only in wine quality, but in creating visitor centers designed by world-class designers.
The most famous among them is the Marqués de Riscal winery. At its heart stands the “Wine City,” designed by Frank Gehry, who previously designed the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. The complex includes a luxury hotel and spa (operated by Marriott), in a supermodern style that boldly contrasts with the more authentic older structuresת some dating back to medieval times. There is also a local Basque-style restaurant, wine cellars and a visitor center (by appointment only). Just as in the Guggenheim, Gehry clad the hotel in titanium — here in shades reflecting the spirit of the region: pink like wine, gold like the metallic netting over bottles, and silver like the bottle cap.
Legend has it that this was the only winery Gehry ever designed. He was persuaded to join the project by a bottle of 1929 vintage wine (coincidentally his birth year), sent along with the design proposal.
Another impressive winery is Bodegas Ysios. Its building, nestled at the foot of the Pyrenees, is shaped in elegant waves — sleek and contemporary. A few minutes’ drive away, in the town of Samaniego, lies Bodegas Baigorri, set on a hilltop with a glass cube structure offering panoramic views of the surrounding vineyards. The entrance floor is framed by four glass facades, with solitary benches that invite contemplation of the breathtaking views. From there, one can take an elevator down into the five levels of the winery and visitor center, or step outside among the vines.
(“Bodegas” means “winery” in Spanish… and there are many fine ones in the area.)
Bilbao & the Guggenheim Museum
From the vineyard terrain we somehow found ourselves in Bilbao — the largest city in the Basque region, located on the Atlantic ocean’s edge. As a base for visiting the Guggenheim Museum — the very reason for our trip to Bilbao — we stayed in Palacio de Oriol, an old castle overlooking the port and converted into a boutique hotel.
The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, inaugurated in 1997, transformed the city’s tourism dynamics. The city itself is a mix of historic quarters, a covered market, cathedrals and even a football club whose players must be of Basque heritage. The museum, like its New York counterpart, is celebrated more for its architecture than for its exhibitions. Gehry designed it in the shape of a ship on the Nervión River, clad predominantly in titanium. The museum is also known for its large outdoor sculptures, including two by Jeff Koons: a 12.4-meter high PUPY dog (planted with flowers that change color by season), greeting visitors at the entrance, and a sculpture of Tulips in the courtyard. During our October visit, PUPY appeared melancholic, reflecting autumn blooms.
Other major sculptures include the Spider by Louise Bourgeois and Tall Tree & The Eye by Anish Kapoor. Inside, the museum continues to surprise — not only through its rotating exhibitions, but by offering views of the river through its glass-covered interior.
From Gehry to Balenciaga
We continued our journey along bays and fishing villages. On the outskirts of San Sebastián, a small resort town, the Balenciaga Museum was established in honor of the local-born designer. Museums dedicated to fashion designers are now part of a broader trend of integrating fashion into global art institutions. In the beautifully designed building made of lace-like iron and glass, overlooking the ocean a retrospective exhibition showcases Balenciaga’s collections from his modest early life to his status as a Parisian design icon.
I’ll share the master’s own words to sum up the experience:
“A couturier must be an architect for plans, a sculptor for shapes, an artist for colour, a musician for harmony, and a philosopher for the sense of proportion.”
San Sebastián-Not What I Expected
San Sebastián was the desire that drove us on this trip, considered the Basque region’s main destination: an old seaside city with the highest concentration of Michelin restaurants, tapas everywhere, the Atlantic surf and palaces turned boutique hotels. But in reality, it fell a bit short. There were historic streets, a cathedral, ornate starred restaurants (which appeal to me less), plenty of tapas, a stormy coastline and notable hotels. But something was missing to make it one of my favorite stops.
In a quick pivot, we changed plans and slipped across into the French Basque side — the true highlight. My takeaway: never compromise — sometimes you need to adjust mid-journey. And that’s exactly what led us to the best parts.
Outdoor Art
Just outside San Sebastián lies Museo Chillida-Leku — an open-air museum worth the trip on its own. In lawns shaded by magnolia and oak trees, Eduardo Chillida (a native Basque) built his estate, dispersing his iron sculptures as if they had always belonged in nature. Chillida began his career as an architect, moved to Paris, became a sculptor, and eventually returned to his Basque homeland to sculpt in metal. His works have been shown in major museums worldwide and won numerous awards. At the heart of the grounds stands a wooden pavilion exhibiting his smaller works. Chillida described his art as:
“Modern as the waves, ancient as the sea.”
A place to breathe in both art and fresh air.
The French Basque Country
A short drive from San Sebastián brings you across the border into the French Basque region. Combine everything the Basque region offers, seaside, gourmet food, mountains in the distance — and add French elegance and polish, and you have a perfect destination. The road to Biarritz winds through beautiful fishing villages that preserved their authenticity and unique ambiance. The most central among these is Saint-Jean-de-Luz — a seamless blend of seaside promenade and a parallel pedestrian street lined with restaurants, galleries, local boutiques and brand shops.
We could have lingered there for days, but we still had another spectacular place waiting.
Biarritz-French Elegance on the Ocean
It might be exaggerated to claim every Parisian luxury exists in Biarritz — plus sea views — but this resort town truly is a winning French combination. The Bay of Biscay creates powerful waves along Biarritz’s coast, luring surfers from around the world and giving the place its unique edge of oceanic elegance.
In 1854 Emperor Napoleon III built a palace for his wife, and ever since Biarritz has drawn European royalty and aristocracy. The city divides into two main zones — the oceanfront promenade lined with hotels and restaurants, and the city center, built on a hill above it, with bustling streets full of cafés, chocolate shops, galleries and boutiques, and an abundance of flowers. As night falls, the city comes alive with glittering nightlife.
We chose to stay at Hotel Villa Koegui Biarritz, a modern new boutique hotel in the upper part of town, from which one could walk to the city’s vibrant streets.
An Unexpected Finale-Carcassonne
The Basque Country lies about six hours’ drive from Barcelona airport, our point of arrival and departure. Crossing the Pyrenees didn’t fit our design-oriented concept, so instead of simply returning the way we came, we decided to drive around the Pyrenees on the French side back to Barcelona. The long journey demanded an overnight stop — and without prior plan, we landed in Carcassonne, one of the most beautiful medieval towns in France, and it didn’t disappoint.
Above the town towers a double-walled fortress dotted with turrets, enclosing a medieval city preserved in every detail. In Carcassonne the hotel options are many; we chose a familiar name and booked a room in a DoubleTree by Hilton. True to the city’s spirit, the hotel combines a castle structure with modern additions and rooms designed in French classic style.
From there, we returned via Costa Brava and the city of Girona. I will soon share a separate post about design highlights in Barcelona.
This was a different kind of trip, not a visit to cities and their designed places, but an exploration through sweeping landscapes of vineyards and ocean, Spain and France. Plans changed mid-journey , and as always in travel, the best discoveries often come unexpectedly..
A Bit About Me and My Work around the world
Hello!
I’m Nurit Geffen, an interior designer with over 20 years of experience. My studio specializes in designing luxury apartments, private homes, and various commercial spaces and offices.
I focus on assisting Israeli clients both domestically and internationally. This includes those who live abroad and those who are investing in a property for rent or vacation use.
My services are fully custom-tailored: I provide meticulous planning, full remote design utilizing AI tools, and a physical presence where needed. I always maintain sensitivity to the needs of Israeli clients while upholding a high international aesthetic standard.
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