When Half Is Worth More Than the Whole My Greek Equation
It was my birthday, and I wanted to celebrate with my children scattered across Israel and the world. I wanted sea — lots of sea — one you can see from your room and reach in just a few steps. I wanted tavernas by the water, good food, and a truly pampering hotel — and I found them all (including every child) in a single magical place.
A two-hour flight to Athens, a brief car rental process, a stop for coffee and bougatsa (phyllo pastry filled with sweet cheese, semolina, and rose water) — a signal to body and soul that Greece has begun. An hour’s drive along a highway past the port of Piraeus (which we would return to), mountains on one side, endless blue sea on the other, then down a side road until we arrived at our safe haven for the coming days.
Greece has about 3,000 somewhat famous islands and 8 peninsulas that receive less romantic publicity — but each offers everything one might expect from a perfect Greek vacation. The largest peninsula in Greece is the Peloponnese, situated south of Athens. The peninsula offers everything the islands offer: coves and sea enveloping from all sides, villages, hidden corners — and in addition the international airport of Athens, enabling regular flights year-round, as well as a developed road network connecting the airport and city to a wealth of magical, island-like locales.
If you love a coastal holiday, vineyards, authentic villages, and urban buzz, museums, galleries and everything large cities have to offer — the Peloponnese is the perfect trip for you. Remember that strange equation in my title, and tell me in the comments whether I managed to prove it.
Agioi Theodoroi
Agioi Theodoroi is a town in Corinthia, on the Saronic Gulf, less than an hour’s drive from Athens. The town is spread along the sea, where summer houses — some breathtaking beachfront estates — are located. The main beach, Pefkakia, is dotted with pine trees and golden sand. It stretches along a beautiful promenade full of tavernas, cafés, and bars, interspersed with small apartment houses with large balconies — balconies I kept imagining choosing for myself.
The main boulevard of the town is part of the old Athens–Corinth highway. It houses shops and services: supermarkets, pharmacies, banks, restaurants, etc., as well as two historic churches.
Isla Brown Corinthia is the luxury resort in the town, located at the end of the promenade, with a private beach, water-sports club, restaurants, and a rooftop where one can begin or end the day. The resort opened to the public in June 2022, after a redesign of the 1970s structure, inspired by the northern volcanic arch and stories of Greek mythology. The result is a contemporary building presenting clean, smooth lines, like river pebbles piled upon each other, with curved, flowing surfaces that create a sculptural effect and instill a sense of movement.
The resort was designed by the Greek architecture firm Elastic Architects (specializing in hotels around the world, including for the Coco Mat chain about which I have written) and won the gold award in the Hotels & Resorts category from IDA, the International Design Awards.
The Corinth Canal
The canal, just minutes from the resort, was dug and inaugurated in 1893, effectively converting the Peloponnese into a water-surrounded “island” — without changing its character as a peninsula, and preserving all the advantages that come with that. The canal was excavated to shorten the route between the Adriatic Sea and the port of Piraeus on the Mediterranean. Above the canal hang three bridges, for train and car traffic.
Today the canal is too narrow for commercial shipping, and mostly yachts pass through. It is absolutely worth visiting.
Nemea-Greece’s Wine Region
A few minutes’ drive on the highway, a turn toward the mountains, and we arrived at Greece’s Tuscany. Vineyard landscapes stretch to the horizon, with a central town and dozens of winemakers around. Most wineries are family-owned, and you feel that in the personal welcome and the love people have for their land and their production.
On my birthday morning, we chose to celebrate in such a family winery — Palyvos Estate — where the family home sits in the vineyard courtyard, and the vine trellis behind the house stretches across a panorama of vineyards to the horizon. The Nemea wine region carries a history of centuries, with the Nemean mountains and valleys on either side producing wine from the indigenous Agiorgitiko grape. Nemea lies in the northeastern corner of the Peloponnese, not far from Argos, a vibrant wine town.
Cultivation of local Agiorgitiko grapes has continued since the 5th century BCE. The vineyards are divided among plains around the town, mountainous areas west of it, and further elevated areas to the northeast. These differences in soil, moisture, and temperature allow the wines to receive diverse aromas and flavors. The finest wines come from vineyards near mountain peaks, where wetter soil and relatively cooler temperatures help produce grapes of higher quality.
Other recommended wineries nearby include Gaia Wines, Estate Constantin Gofas (about which I have written), Giannikos Winery, and the prestigious Domaine Skouras on the way to Nafplio. The wineries offer tastings, lunches, and tours, all by appointment. Note that in summer months and on weekends, some wineries close to visitors.
Lake Vouliagmeni
Lake Vouliagmeni meaning “the sunken lake” is a small saline lake in which underground warm, hydrogen-sulfide–rich sea currents mix with freshwater spring flows, creating a natural spa. It is a wonderful destination along the way to the wineries of Nemea and the ancient city of Nafplio — definitely worth a detour from Athens. The stunning lake was formed by the collapse of a large cave due to an earthquake; deep within the mountain lies an unexplored subterranean cave, never fully studied, because its end is unseen and many researchers have drowned trying to explore it.
Around the lake there is a café and restaurant open year-round, and the nearby town of Vouliagmeni is also a lovely spot to visit or stay. If you are in the area, it’s also worth visiting the Temple of Poseidon, perched on a hill overlooking the Saronic Gulf.
Nafplio - Enchanting Alleyways in the Old Town
Nafplio is a port town at the northernmost part of the Argolis Gulf and was the first capital of modern Greece beginning in 1829. The old town is built mostly on a small peninsula jutting into the Argolic Gulf, producing a cluster of charming alleyways exactly as you imagine when you hear “picturesque alleys.” At the heart is a central square and an ancient church.
I recommend dining in restaurants within the old town, and letting the tourist traps by the sea be reserved for coffee and dessert (because how many times can you fall into those traps when the view is this extraordinary?). Between the alleys you’ll find galleries and unique design shops. You won’t find brand chains, and there are few traditional souvenir shops for tourists.
In Nafplio there are two fortresses: one is the Bourtzi Fortress, located on a small islet at the bay entrance and visible from the cafés opposite, and the other is the Palamidi Fortress, atop the hill overlooking the town. If you have time and you love fortresses (I hope it’s obvious I didn’t climb them all), tell me what I missed.
Piraeus
Let’s begin from the “end” — Piraeus is a bustling port city that doesn’t fit the romantic image usually attached to it, and is nothing like the famous song by Chaim Moshe:
“Upon a comfortable chair, overcome by heat
I wish to escape, on the wings of a dream
To an unknown bay, a quiet island within it
A small, tranquil village before the Mediterranean”
The only line of that song that rings true is that one could faint from the heat there. But it has its charm — and on every visit to Athens and the surrounding area we make a point to see what we might have missed, because the song is so beautiful.
In the city there is a real flea market, narrow streets overlooking the sea and Athens, and also an excellent restaurant and a design gallery showcasing leading international names, unrelated to all prior impressions of Piraeus. As in every post and place to which the blog travels, Piraeus also has a design gallery of its own. Carwan Gallery is a leading international gallery of contemporary design, focusing on innovative design collections from the Near East and beyond.
The gallery was founded in Beirut, Lebanon, in 2011 by architects and entrepreneurs Pascale Wakim and Nicolas Bellavance Lecompte, and opened near the port of Piraeus in September 2020. The gallery fosters collaborations between architects, artists, and designers, cultural organizations, institutions, design press, and collectors. It has been invited to present its exhibitions at major art and design fairs in Dubai, Basel, London, New York, and Miami, has curated design exhibits in multiple museums and cultural centers, and is considered a key player among contemporary design galleries worldwide.
Varoulko Seaside Restrant
Varoulko Seaside is a restaurant utterly unlike what I expected of Piraeus. After wandering through the flea market, we looked for an authentic restaurant by the marina to eat fried fish with our hands facing the boats. Somehow, we found ourselves seated in a very elegant place, surrounded by refined diners — but we realized we had arrived at something extraordinary, and we were hungry, so we stayed.
Thus began a gastronomic celebration combining the marina’s view and a stunning sunset. The celebrated Michelin-starred chef, Lefteris Lazarou, heads outstanding seafood dishes, blending traditional and contemporary flavors. I don’t like to make restaurant recommendations lightly, but I’ll only say: if you are in Athens or nearby, it is worth visiting this place — especially at sunset.
Athens - The Happiest City in the World
I wrote about the stylish places in Athens in another post (which broke viewership records). I recommend you read that too. We returned to Athens for a day filled with joy and fun.
If I had to choose just three recommendations in Athens, I would pick:
The Naxos Apothecary – Visit for its natural cosmetics and perfumery products, its selection of teas and botanical formulas — and for its stunning design. Don’t miss the top floor. It’s secret.
Ergon House – Visit for its food hall, which is a hymn to Greek produce, and for the design that conveys the sense of abundance and quality of Greek food. Eat there, and buy some of Greece’s finest produce to take home. Don’t miss the restrooms in the basement level — the design there in Greek marble is striking.
The store is part of the hotel of the same name, which I highly recommend as well.
Naxos and Ergon also have shops in the Athens airport — in case you didn’t visit or want just one more last-minute stop. They also operate online stores.
We toured a luxe personal trip with Ran and Liran, who design custom vacations in Greece — with exceptional food, sparkling (nonalcoholic) drinks, and ultra-designed, contemporary places that made the city even happier.
The Peloponnese peninsula is immensely diverse. It offers the perfect sense of freedom one expects from a Greek island, while combining also the pleasures of big cities (Tripoli, the region’s capital; Patras, the big city in the area; and, of course, the capital Athens).
Do you remember my Greek equation? Write me in the comments whether I succeeded in proving it.
A Bit About Me and my Work around the world
Hello!
I’m Nurit Geffen, an interior designer with over 20 years of experience. My studio specializes in designing luxury apartments, private homes, and various commercial spaces and offices.
I focus on assisting Israeli clients both domestically and internationally. This includes those who live abroad and those who are investing in a property for rent or vacation use.
My services are fully custom-tailored: I provide meticulous planning, full remote design utilizing AI tools, and a physical presence where needed. I always maintain sensitivity to the needs of Israeli clients while upholding a high international aesthetic standard.
Ready to start a new project in Greece, Italy, the U.S., or anywhere else in the world? I’m here for an initial consultation or a chat about your vision.
I love to travel and work globally, and I’m thrilled to share my passion and experiences, from both a personal and professional lens, on my blog, Design&the City, which is also published on Ynet. For up-to-the-minute updates on the world’s most beautiful spaces, please follow me on Instagram by clicking this link.
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